Tren

Viatjar en tren per la India et permet observar de mes aprop aspectes de la vida quotidiana que, d'altra manera, potser quedarien mes amagats per al viatjer. L'extensa xarxa ferroviaria del pais es tot un luxe, considerant l'estat de les infraestructures i, en especial, de les carreteres rurals (sofrides per qui aixo escriu a "espatlles" d'una scooter). Es cert que la puntualitat no n'es un punt fort i que no aniria malament renovar el parc ferroviari obsolet - ni les estacions. Pero dit aixo, i considerant que es tracta de la India, aquest sistema ferroviari te molt a ensenyar a la Renfe en aspectes tan essencials com l'homogeneitat de la xarxa, eficiencia burocratica i amabilitat i disponibilitat del personal - entre altres coses.
Travelling by train around India allows one to see some aspects of day-to-day life from a closer perspective that, otherwise, would possibly be missed out on. The extensive railway network of the country is a luxury, considering the state of infrastructures and, especially, of regional roads (suffered by me aboard a scooter). It's true that punctuality is not its strongest point and that replacing the tired trains and carriages wouldn't come amiss - and best not to mention the stations. But having said that, and considering this is India, the railway system has a lot to teach other networks like Renfe (Spain) in important aspects such as network homogeneity, burocratic eficiency and mainly friendlyness and availability of the staff.


Tota estacio sembla ser un punt neuralgic del poble o ciutat que li dona nom. Un lloc de pas per molta gent a diari - entre trens locals, regionals i trans-estatals - pero tambe un lloc on habita una fauna ben especifica. Les especies mes comuns a l'estacio semblen ser tres, agrupables en dues potser. Una son els nins pobres que demanen. Existeix tota una tropa de nins i nines, des de nadons fins adolescents, que es passejen per l'estacio i es dediquen a demanar als viatjers (turistes occidentals preferiblement). Alguns demanen nomes, alguns fan un intent d'oferir un servei (normalment bastant poc util) a canvi d'algunes monedes per menjar. Hi ha de tot: vestits, mig nus, bruts... Cal dir que oferint alguna peca de fruita o menjar, rapidament es distingeixen els que realment tenen fam dels que no. Una altra especie d'estacio (agrupable amb l'anterior) es la dels cans. Tota una serie de cans de tota casta viuen mig salvatgement de les poques donacions dels viatjers. Semblen tenir les seves jerarquies i histories ja establertes - com si fes anys que dominassin aquell habitat - i formen una petita mafia canina. Finalment estan els venedors ambulants. Tot un exercit de venedors a cada estacio per oferir de tot i mes i gairebe a qualsevol hora. Alguns dels millors snacks es troben, segur, a l'estacio.
Every station seems to be a central point of the town or city that gives it a name. A place of transit for many people every day - local, regional and inter-state trains - but also a place that has its own specific fauna. The most common species seem to be three, probably classifiable into two. One is the poor children that beg. There is a whole division of boys and girls, from babies to teenagers, that walk around the station begging for money from the travellers (western tourists preferably). Some simply beg, others make a feeble attempt to offer some service in exchange (usually fairly useless one) for a few rupees to eat something. There is everything to be had: dressed, dirty, semi-naked...It's interesting to see how by offering a piece of fruit or something to eat instead of a coin, it's easy to see who really is hungry and who isn't. Another species (in the same group as the previous) is that of the dogs. A whole bunch of dogs of all sorts roam around semi-wildly and feed off the few donations from travellers. They seem to have their little hierarchies established - as if they've dominated the place for years - and form a small canine mafia. Finally, there are the food stalls. There is a whole army of these people offering practically anything at any time of the day. Some of the best snacks can be found, surely, at the station.

Ara estic al tren, de cami a Hospet des de Margao (Goa). Son unes set hores (a mitjana de 30-40 kmh) en les quals passa l'homenet cada 15-20 minuts oferint te/cafe a 5 Rs. la tassa. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. El trajecte en tren permet observar el marcat canvi al paisatge. Sortint de Margao es veuen incontables camps arids i rojos. La calor del migdia desaconsella passejar-se per la zona, pero aixi i tot es veuen sil.luetes en la distancia, recollint el coto dels camps. Feina feixuga. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. Algun arbre aqui i alla romp la monotonia del paisatge. Estic pensant que si s'elimina alguna figura que es veu i alguna paret mal feta que hi ha de tan en tant, i es "planta" un lleo...jo em crec que estic a un tren que travessa les planicies africanes. Pero a l'horitzo es veuen algunes montanyes i, un cop superat l'obstacle gracies als tunels, de cop i volta canvia el paisatge. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. Ara tot sembla mes verd, mes hidratat. Es veuen plantacions d'arros i gent treballant-hi. Els vestits de les dones son de colors intensos, vius. Es nota un aire diferent, mes alegria. Un llac, vida. Ja queda no res...arribam a Hospet i d'aqui a Hampi per visitar les runes de Vijayanagar, situades a un escenari impressionant de roques gegants - paradis d'escaladors de tot el mon.

I'm now on the train, heading towards Hospet from Margao (Goa). It takes about 7 hours (at a staggering 30-40 kmph average) in which time the little man offering chai at 5 Rs a cup comes every 15-20 min without failure. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. The train ride offers one the chance to see the distinct change in scenery. Leaving Margao there are endless fields, arid and of reddish tint. The midday heat advises against walking around the area, but even so one can see people in the distance working the cotton fields. Tough work. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. An odd tree here and there breaks the monotonous scenery. I think that if one removes the odd soul there in the distance, along with one or two poorly constructed walls, and plants a lion...I would easily believe to be on board a train crossing the african plains. But in the distant horizon a few mountains appear and, once that obstacle is overcome with the aid of a few tunnels, the scenery changes all of a sudden. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. Now everything seems much greener, lush. Rice fields to either side of the track and people working on them. The dresses of the local women are of intens, vibrant colours. There is a something different in the air, more joy. A lake, life. We're almost there. Hospet is around the corner and from there to Hampi to visit the ruins of Vijayanagar, located in the midst of an impressive scenery of giant boulders - paradise for rock climbers around the world.