Vicenc Ferrer vs. Sai Baba

Vam arribar a la Fundacio Vicenc Ferrer (FVF) ben tard, damunt la 1.30del mati i la pau i tranquil.litat que es respira al recinte s’agraeix despres d’un llarg i accidentat viatge. El mati seguent, havent descansat i recarregat bateries (totes: cos, ment, camera, ipod, telefon...) vam anar a berenar i identificar-nos com a visitants a l’autoritat competent. Fent la passejada des de les habitacions fins a l’oficina d’apadrinament, amb aturada tecnica al menjador, un se n’adona d’un fet curios i notable: el recinte es silencios, net, ordenat, tranquil. En resum: tot el que no es la India. Alla enfora, rera les barreres de l’entrada, hi ha renou, brutor, transit, fums...

We arrived at the Fundacio Vicenc Ferrer (FVF) fairly late, at about 1.30am and the peace and quiet in the compound was a lovely surprise after a long and shaky journey. The next morning, having rested and charged up batteries (all: body, mind, camera, ipod, phone...) we went for breakfast and to identify ourselves as visitors with the authority in charge. Walking from the rooms to the sponsorship office, with pit-stop at the dining hall, one notices something strange: the compound is silent, clean, orderly, peaceful. Basically, everything that India is not. There in the distance, beyond the entry gates, there is noise, dirt, trafic, fumes...

Despres d'identificar els nins/nines apadrinats (i no era nomes un!) i planificar visites els dies seguents, ens vam posar en marxa amb les visites als diferents centres que te la fundacio. Hospital, hospital de SIDA, hospital de maternitat, centre de planificacio familiar, centre de manualitats per discapacitats, etc. Molt interessant i, cal dir, que es fa molta i molt bona feina (tant per part dels voluntaris com per part dels treballadors de la FVF).Al final d'un dia ple de visites tocava passar per l'oficina i saludar el Vicenc. Parlar amb el Vicenc no deixa indiferent a ningu. Es un homenet vell (88) amb la fragilitat aparent d'un gerro de vidre, que treu foc per la boca. A estones no sembla del tot lucid, pero en general sap el que es diu. La provocacio verbal com a metode d'analisi de qui n'es receptor es una tecnica molt usada ( i que m'agrada molt a mi). Quan ho fa un padrinet, que sembla que s'ha de trencar si s'aixeca, amb la tranquil.litat de molts anys de bagatge, de molts anys de sofriment i de molts anys de feina pels altres amb grans millores i fites aconseguides, no pots fer altra cosa que somriure i jugar-hi, sabent que perdras. Te caracter i es carismatic (aixi ha aconseguit el que ha aconseguit). El seu missatge es poderos tot i que no deixa d'estar antiquat, en certa manera.

After identifying the sponsored boys and girls (not just one!) and planning the visits for the following days, we got going with the visits to the diferent centres that the FVF has. Hospitals, AIDS hospital, maternity centre, family planning centre, disabled arts and crafts centre, etc. Very interesting and, one must say, that much work, and good work, is being done (both by the volunteers as well as the workers). After a day full of visits it was time to drop by the office and greet Vicente Ferrer. Talking with Vicente Ferrer doesn't leave you feeling indifferent. He's an old man (88) with the apparent frailty of a glass vase, that spews fire out of his mouth. At times he doesn't seem quite with it, but in general he knows what he's saying. Verbal provocation as a means of analysing people is an extended technique (one which I happen to like). When an ol grandad, who seems will break if he stands up, does this to you, with the peace of mind that gives him many years of suffering for others and much good work done with plenty of achievements in the aid of people, then all you can do is smile and play the game, knowing full well you will loose. He has character and carisma (that's how he's achieved all he has). His message is powerful, though it's old and tired.

El dia seguent era dia de visites als poblats. I aqui es quan torna a escena el polo de Hampi (molt probablement). 40 de febre, vomits i diarrea - lo tipic d'una intoxicacio. Per sort em va (ens va - al David tambe, 1 dia i mig despres) passar estant a la FVF i no sol a qualsevols lloc. Amb un equip medic de 4 metges i 2 enfermeres, vaig estar ben ates. Dos dies despres i com a nou: purificat, desintoxicat i aprimat.

The next day was day of visit to the villages. And here the ice-lolly from Hampi (most likely) makes a second appearance in the play. 40C fever, vomits, diarrhea - the usual for food poisoning. Lucky for me (and David - a day and a half later he too fell) I was at the FVF and not alone elsewhere. With 4 doctors and 2 nurses around, I was well taken care of. Two days later and as good as new: purified, detoxed and thinner.

Despres del petit parentesi vaig anar a visitar Vijaykumar al seu poblat, que va resultar ser a 3 hores de cami. L'experiencia de les visites als pobles dels nins apadrinats, com ja m'havien comentat, es una mescla entre emotiva i violenta. L'ocasio es tota una festa per la gent del poble. En el meu cas em va rebre TOT el poble, amb dances tribals i musica. De l'entrada del poble fins a la casa de Vijaykumar vam anar en processo, amb la musica, les dances, i jo com si fos l'imatge d'un sant que passejen a les festes. Violent - amb el poc que m'agrada a mi ser el centre d'atencio. La resta del temps va passar entre explicacions de la traductora, presentacions de tota la familia, regals que els havia duit, cants i balls dels nins i nines, fotos, etc. Una experiencia globalment positiva, molt interessant. La familia i el poble realment estan contents i es senten honrats que algu que els dona suport economic (indirectament) vengui de tan alluny per visitar-los. Per mi hi ha dues coses negatives. Una es que, tot i l'espectacle visual i de color de la visita (molt bonic), un no veu realment com viu la gent al poblat - el dia a dia, els problemes que tenen, etc. Altra es el tracte i la veneracio cap a la teva persona. Qui aporta 18 euros al mes per ajudar els projectes de la FVF no es cap sant/a. Hi ha moltes motivacions per donar suport als que el necessiten; el reconeixement esta be per alguns - pero la idolatracio ja es una mica massa.

After the small break in activity I went to visit Vijaykumar in his village, which happened to be 3 hours away. The experience of visiting the village of sponsored children, as I had been told, is a mixture of emotional and awkward. A visit is an festive occasion for the whole village. In my case the WHOLE village was waiting for me with tribal dances, music. From the entrance to the village until Vijaykumar's house we walked in procession with the music, the dancing and I, as if I was the image of some saint that is carried around the town for some festive celebration. Awkward – I really hate being the centre of attention anyway. The rest of the time was spent listening to the explanations from the translator, introductions to the whole family, giving presents I had for them, dancing and singing acts by the children, photo session, etc. A globally positive experience, very interesting. The family and the village people are really happy and honoured that someone that helps them economically (indirectly) should come from so far away to visit them. For me there were two negative things. One is that, despite the beautiful display of colour and sound (very attractive), one cannot really see how these people live – the day-to-day, the issues they face, etc. Another is the way you are treated and venerated. Someone who contributes 18 euro a month to help fund FVF projects is not a saint. There are many motivations for giving to the needy; self recognition is ok for some – but becoming an idol for that reason is a bit too much.



La resta de la setmana la vaig passer de relax al recinte de la FVF. Durant la setmana s’ha anat creant un grup de gent jove molt interessant que, per diverses raons, estaven de visita per lliure. Juntament amb els voluntaris hem compartit dinars, sopars, tertulies, cerveses, jocs, trucs, experiencies, etc. Realment molt interessant i instructiu. Salutacions a tots: David, Juantxo, Idoya, Lagui, Amaya, Benji, Ana, Veronica, Jose, Ezequiel, Israel i segur que me deix algun altre. I tambe a tots els voluntaris i voluntaries. I despres de perrear uns dies a Anantapur vam decidir de fer una visita – gairebe obligada – a Putthaparti: la casa de Sai Baba.



The rest of the week was spent relaxing at the FVF. During that week a nice group of young people traveling around and visiting the FVF has formed. Together with the volunteers we shared meals, chats, beers, games, thoughts, etc. Very interesting indeed. Regards to all. And also to all the volunteers. After bumming around in Anantapur for a few days we decided to make the next visit – almost compulsory – to Putthaparti: the house of Sai Baba.



Sai Baba es un homenet vell (un altre) que als 14 anys es va autoproclamar la reencarnacio de no se quin sant o persona sagrada. Els seus fans el consideren la reencarnacio de Deu a la Terra. I a comprovar-ho anarem. Entrant a l’ashram de Sai Baba – despres de 2 hores de bus – vaig tenir la mateixa sensacio que a l’entrar a la FVF: ordre, neteja, silenci. Igual, pero a major escala. Aqui hi ha milers de persones, es un altre nivell. El montatge es monumental: dins el recinte hi ha supermercat, llibreria, oficina de correus, etc. Afora no es queden curts. Putthaparti ha passat de ser un poblat pobre a una ciutat amb hospitals, universitat, milers de tendes, restaurants, etc. Tota una transformacio. Es fan dues ceremonies al dia, el les quals pot o no compareixer el guru. El demati despres d’arribar ens llevarem d’hora i anarem al temple. Jo estava emocionat, expectant. Entrarem i ens col.locarem. Dones i homes separats, fora sabates. El temple es una nau industrial gran, sense parets i el sol es ciment. Les decoracions al sostre i l’altar ho diferencien d’una altra nau industrial qualsevol. Vam esperar una hora. Comencen els cantics. Expectacio. A la vora del temple esta la casa del guru. El seu cotxe espera fora pel trajecte de 15m (60m si comptam fins l’altar). 40 minuts de cantics despres sembla que es mouen figures alla alluny a la casa. Efectivament, el guru fa l’entrada al recinte (moment patrocinat per Toyota). Molt lentament va anar passant pel carril cotxe, mentre la gent es posava les mans al cap fens sons d’adoracio. El guru va passar i va mirar (rera el vidre); va anar fins l’altar, on el van treure i el van ficar a unes estancies tancades on, suposadament, rep certa gent i canta amb ells. Ja no el vam tornar veure. Resultat: absolutament no-res. Ni il.luminats, ni impressionats, ni res de res. Ara, cansats i malhumorats, aixo si. I jo me deman: si aquest homenet fos Deu (o el que un ho vulgui anomenar) o la seva reencarnacio aqui, no ho notaria jo al veure’l i estar en la seva presencia? En resum: una estafa.


Sai Baba is a little old man (another) that at the age of 14 self-declared the reincarnation of some saint of sacred person (no clue who). His fans consider him the reincarnation of God on Earth. And we headed out to check this very thing. Walking into Sai Baba’s ashram – after 2 hours of bus – I had the same feeling as walking into the FVF: orderly, clean and quiet. The same but at a greater scale. There are thousands of people here, it’s a different level. The setup is certainly impressive: inside the compound there is a supermarket, a bookshop, a post office, etc. Outside it’s just as impressive. Putthaparti has changed from a tiny poor village into a city with hospitals, a university, many shops, restaurants, etc. A full transformation. There are two ceremonies a day, in which the guru may or may not make his appearance. The morning after our arrival we got up early and headed to the temple. I was excited, full of expectations. We got in and took a place. Men and women in separate wings, no shoes. The temple is but a large industrial warehouse, without walls and paved. The decorations on the ceiling and the altar are what make this place somewhat different from any industrial warehouse. We waited an hour. The singing started. Expectation. Next to the temple there is the house of the guru. His car awaits outside to cover the full 15m into the temple (60m if you count to the altar). 40 minutes of singing after it seems there is some movement there in the distance. Indeed, the guru makes his entrance (moment sponsored by Toyota), Slowly his car advances in the car lane, as people take their hands to their heads and profess adoration. The guru passed by and looked around (from inside the car), he went to the altar where he was taken out and carted to some closed quarters where, allegedly, he sings and meet with some people. We saw no more of him. Result: absolutely nothing. Not enlightened, not impressed, nothing. If anything, tired and annoyed. I ask myself: if this little man is God (or however one likes to call it) or its reincarnation on Earth, would I not feel this in some way when in his presence? To sum up: scam.

I ara al que ocupa el titol d’aquesta entrada de blog (a la fi): Vicenc Ferrer vs. Sai Baba. Despres d’haver estat als dos llocs la primera conclusion es: ambdues organitzacions tenen un aire sectari (Sai Baba molt mes). Vicenc Ferrer es un predicador, un evangelista. El seu missatge d’ajuda als alters neix de la seva ideologia catolica. Despres d’escoltar-lo varies vegades un se n’adona que aquest rerafons sempre l’acompanyara. Un fet semblant passa amb el Sai Baba. El missatge de pau, amor i espiritualitat es el que atrau a tanstissima gent en un mon tan necessitat d’aquestes qualitats. La direfencia, pero, es molt notable. Rera el missatge de Vicenc Ferrer hi ha tot un grapat de persones treballant en el mon real: ajudant a la gent que ho necessita. L’accio que predica Vicenc es el que realment dona valor a la FVF. I que fa el Sai Baba? No ho se ben be. El que si que es clar es que la quantitat de diners que rep en donacions es monumental, arreu del mon i que s’han construit hospitals i universitat a Putthaparti – i el desenvolupament del poble es evident.Pero mes enlla la gent continua en la pobresa, la insal.lubritat. No s’ajuda activament a la gent.

Conclusio: KILL THE GURU. Els gurus sobren. L’accio que es fa es el que queda. No estic il.luminat: una pena.

And now for the subject of this blog entry (finally): Vicente Ferrer vs. Sai Baba. Having been in both places the first conclusion is: both organizations stink of sect (Sai Baba considerably more). Vicente Ferrer is a preacher, an evangelist. His message of helping others comes from his catholic ideology. After hearing him several times one realises that this will always be a part of his speach. Something similar happens with Sai Baba. The message of peace, love and spirituality is what draws so many people in a world that is so needy of such qualities. The difference is, however, quite important. Behind Vicente Ferrer preaching there are a whole bunch of people working in the real world: helping people in need. Action is what makes the FVF a worthy organisation. What does Sai Baba do? I’m not entirely sure. The huge amount of money he receives in donations has been used to build hospitals, university in Putthaparti – and the development of the town is there to see. But further than that people are still living in poverty. There is no active aid for people.

Conclusion: KILL THE GURU. Gurus are expendable. Action is what remains. I haven’t been enlightened: it’s a real shame.

Hampi Hampi

El que mes impressiona de Hampi no son tots els temples i monuments que hi ha als voltants, sino l'escenari on es troben aquests. Hampi esta situada als dos marges d'un riu i aixo dona molta vida al lloc: tota la zona es un petit oasi enrevoltat de muntanyes formades per grans roques col.locades de maneres inverosimils. Mirant les roques es podria ben concloure que algun gegant ha passat un bon grapat de setmanes col.locant-les d'aquella manera, que sembla qualsevol cosa menys aleatoria. Pero be, pels que som mes cientifics-racionals en el nostre pensament (no se exactament que vol dir aixo) el paisatge de Hampi es una majestuosa coincidencia de la Natura.



The most impressive thing about Hampi are not the temples and monuments in its surroundings, but rather the stage where these are located. Hampi spreads to both sides of a river and this provides it with much life: the whole area is a small oasis surrounded by mountains made of great big boulders put together in unbelievable ways. Looking at their disposition, one could easily conclude that some giant has spent a good few weeks placing them in that manner, which seems anything but random. For those of us that are more rationallly inclined in our thought (not quite sure what that means) Hampi's landscape is a majestic coincidence of Nature.

Vaig arribar a Hampi amb un nou company de viatge: el David de Valladolid (rima inclosa), fruit d'una altra coincidencia (o la Providencia, com diria ell) i de l'accent marcadament espanyol amb que parlam la majoria de persones del pais (no tots). Hampi es un petit poblat als dos marges del riu Tungabhadra (ho he hagut de mirar) i que viu, basicament, dels turistes i dels molts peregrins indis que venen aqui. Aquests dos dies els hem dedicat a explorar la zona a peu sota una intensa calor. La majoria dels temples son ara nomes monuments, alguns en millor estat que altres, dins els quals no es venera cap deitat. Els que encara son temples en us son els mes bruts i l'estat de conservacio i neteja a algunes zones es mes que millorable. Hi ha tot un grapat de gent que dorm i, en general, viu dins els temples. Tots els fems, la brutor, les vaques, les monees, la calor, juntament amb les ofrenes (fruita, flors, encens, etc.) del dia i de molts altres dies passats, es mesclen per crear un ambient deliros, fantastic, inverosimil, que qualsevol podria qualificar de mistic.

I arrived in Hampi with a new travel companion: David from Valladolid (doesn't work in English), as a result of another coincidence (or Providence, as he would like to call it) and of the distinct Spanish accent with which we speak English in Spain (not all of us). Hampi is a small town spreading to both sides of the river Tungabhadra (had to check that just now) that lives, basically, off tourists and pilgrims that come here. We've spent these two days exploring the area on foot under the intense heat. Most of the temples are now just monuments, some in better state than others, in which there is no religious activity. Those that are still temples are the most dirty and their conservation state and cleanliness in some areas is more than improvable. There is a whole bunch of people that sleep and, in general, live inside the temples. All the garbage, dirt, cows, monkeys, the heat, together with the offerings (fruit, flowers, incens, etc.) of the day and many other days past, blend together to create a delirious, fantastic, unbelievable atmosphere that many would qualify as mistical.

Al final d'un llarg primer dia amb una passejada d'uns 15km sota la calor, vam decidir creuar el riu (amb barca, 10 Rs. - 2 minuts; negoci rodo) i explorar l'ambient de l'altra banda. Problema: darrer creuament en barca a les 18h. Solucio (cortesia d'un heaviata alemany): es pot creuar a peu per un lloc, banyant-se fins els genolls o cintura. Preparacio: banyadors, xancles, frontal, bossa hermetica pels diners. Tot llest. Vam creuar en barca i vam explorar aquella banda del riu. L'ambient es molt mes relaxat, amb molts chill-outs i poques tendes. Millor per quedar-s'hi (per la propera vegada). Una tenda amb un al.lot indi que parla castella gairebe perfecte: casat amb una cordobesa (petit mon).

At the end of a long first day with a 15km walk in the sun, we decided to cross the river (by boat, 10 Rs. 2 minutes; can't go wrong) and explore the atmosphere of the other side. Problem: last crossing at 18h. Solution (courtesy of heavy metal German): river can be crossed on foot, with water up to knees or waist. Preparation: swimming trunks, flip-flops, headlamp, sealed bag for money. Ready. We crossed by boat and explored that side. There is a much more relaxed atmosphere there, with plenty of chill-outs and few shops. Better to stay (for next time). A shop with an indian that speak near perfect Spanish: married to a girl from Cordoba (small world).

Hora de tornada. Xerrant amb una al.lota suissa ens comenta que no es pot creuar el riu a peu: han obert les comportes de la presa riu amunt i el nivell ha pujat casi 2 metres. Ens mostra un video que ho confirma. Increduls nosaltres baixam al marge del riu per valorar la situacio. Frontal al cap, navegant pels fems, ens adonam que per creuar caldra nedar i la corrent recomana no fer-ho de vespre. De tornada cap amunt es materialitzen del no-res quatre cans. Comencen a encalcar-nos, lladrant...merda! Corre, corre, corre....costa amunt. S'aturen abans d'arribar als primers edificis. Ara tot son rialles, suor, adrenalina. Finalment vam quedar a aquella banda del riu el vespre. Pel que costen les habitacions no es pagat, millor que nedar al riu de vespre.

Time to head back. Talking to a Swiss girl she tells us it's not possible to cross the river on foot: the flood gates of the damn upriver have been opened and the water level is 2 metres higher. She shows us a video that confirms this. Disbelieving people that we are we head down to the river side to asses the situation. Headlamp on, navigating through garbage, we realise that in order to cross we will have to fully swim and the current would recommend not doing this at night. On the way back up four dogs appear from nowhere. They start chasing us, barking...shit! Run, run, run...uphill. They stop short of the first buildings. It's all laughter now, sweat and adrenaline. Finally we stayed on that side of the river that night. For the cost of a room, it's not worth swimming in the river at night.

El dia seguent visitarem el temple Hanuman (monkey temple) amb les seves 600 i mes escales. Grans vistes des d’alt. Despres de tornada a l’hostal per preparar la maleta i agafar el bus cap a Anantapur. Esperant el bus a Hampi feia moltissima calor. Un polo fresquet: gran idea. Gran error, jeje. Despres d’una experiencia mitica en bus durant gairebe 6 hores per carreteres (camins) intransitables a vegades – tota una odisea de la qual un se’n riu despres (nomes despres) – arribarem a Anantapur.



The next day we visited the Hanuman temple (monkey temple) with 600 plus steps. Great views from the top. After that back to the guest house to pack the bag and take the bus to Anantapur. Waiting for the bus in Hampi it was very hot. A nice ice-lolly: great idea. Big mistake, hehe. After an unbelievable experience by bus during almost 6 hours, driving on sometimes undriveable roads – an odissey of which one can laugh after (only after) – we arrived in Anantapur.

Fivefingers

Si un vol viatjar tranquil.lament i passar desapercebut el que NO ha de fer es dur posades les Fivefingers de Vibram (mirau la foto). Es cert que es probablement el calcat mes comode que he portat mai a la vida i va especialment be pel clima a la India. Son especialment practiques per passejar entre la gran quantitat de fems i brutor que hi ha al carrer i, a diferencia de portant xancles, no tenir els peus completament negres - nomes una mica. Pero dit aixo, tambe s'ha de valorar l'estupor que causen arreu. Tant per occidentals com per indis, les fivefingers suposen un xoc monumental. Es curios veure com algu que camina descalc no provoca cap sorpresa, pero caminar amb una "sabata" que tapa dit per dit separadament provoca rialles, sorpresa, gairebe rebuig. Crec que tots els que han sabut (parlar en angles) m'han demanat que portava als peus. Camines pel carrer i veus un amic que li pega una colzadeta a l'altre com dient:"mira, mira que porta aquell als peus!"

Tren

Viatjar en tren per la India et permet observar de mes aprop aspectes de la vida quotidiana que, d'altra manera, potser quedarien mes amagats per al viatjer. L'extensa xarxa ferroviaria del pais es tot un luxe, considerant l'estat de les infraestructures i, en especial, de les carreteres rurals (sofrides per qui aixo escriu a "espatlles" d'una scooter). Es cert que la puntualitat no n'es un punt fort i que no aniria malament renovar el parc ferroviari obsolet - ni les estacions. Pero dit aixo, i considerant que es tracta de la India, aquest sistema ferroviari te molt a ensenyar a la Renfe en aspectes tan essencials com l'homogeneitat de la xarxa, eficiencia burocratica i amabilitat i disponibilitat del personal - entre altres coses.
Travelling by train around India allows one to see some aspects of day-to-day life from a closer perspective that, otherwise, would possibly be missed out on. The extensive railway network of the country is a luxury, considering the state of infrastructures and, especially, of regional roads (suffered by me aboard a scooter). It's true that punctuality is not its strongest point and that replacing the tired trains and carriages wouldn't come amiss - and best not to mention the stations. But having said that, and considering this is India, the railway system has a lot to teach other networks like Renfe (Spain) in important aspects such as network homogeneity, burocratic eficiency and mainly friendlyness and availability of the staff.


Tota estacio sembla ser un punt neuralgic del poble o ciutat que li dona nom. Un lloc de pas per molta gent a diari - entre trens locals, regionals i trans-estatals - pero tambe un lloc on habita una fauna ben especifica. Les especies mes comuns a l'estacio semblen ser tres, agrupables en dues potser. Una son els nins pobres que demanen. Existeix tota una tropa de nins i nines, des de nadons fins adolescents, que es passejen per l'estacio i es dediquen a demanar als viatjers (turistes occidentals preferiblement). Alguns demanen nomes, alguns fan un intent d'oferir un servei (normalment bastant poc util) a canvi d'algunes monedes per menjar. Hi ha de tot: vestits, mig nus, bruts... Cal dir que oferint alguna peca de fruita o menjar, rapidament es distingeixen els que realment tenen fam dels que no. Una altra especie d'estacio (agrupable amb l'anterior) es la dels cans. Tota una serie de cans de tota casta viuen mig salvatgement de les poques donacions dels viatjers. Semblen tenir les seves jerarquies i histories ja establertes - com si fes anys que dominassin aquell habitat - i formen una petita mafia canina. Finalment estan els venedors ambulants. Tot un exercit de venedors a cada estacio per oferir de tot i mes i gairebe a qualsevol hora. Alguns dels millors snacks es troben, segur, a l'estacio.
Every station seems to be a central point of the town or city that gives it a name. A place of transit for many people every day - local, regional and inter-state trains - but also a place that has its own specific fauna. The most common species seem to be three, probably classifiable into two. One is the poor children that beg. There is a whole division of boys and girls, from babies to teenagers, that walk around the station begging for money from the travellers (western tourists preferably). Some simply beg, others make a feeble attempt to offer some service in exchange (usually fairly useless one) for a few rupees to eat something. There is everything to be had: dressed, dirty, semi-naked...It's interesting to see how by offering a piece of fruit or something to eat instead of a coin, it's easy to see who really is hungry and who isn't. Another species (in the same group as the previous) is that of the dogs. A whole bunch of dogs of all sorts roam around semi-wildly and feed off the few donations from travellers. They seem to have their little hierarchies established - as if they've dominated the place for years - and form a small canine mafia. Finally, there are the food stalls. There is a whole army of these people offering practically anything at any time of the day. Some of the best snacks can be found, surely, at the station.

Ara estic al tren, de cami a Hospet des de Margao (Goa). Son unes set hores (a mitjana de 30-40 kmh) en les quals passa l'homenet cada 15-20 minuts oferint te/cafe a 5 Rs. la tassa. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. El trajecte en tren permet observar el marcat canvi al paisatge. Sortint de Margao es veuen incontables camps arids i rojos. La calor del migdia desaconsella passejar-se per la zona, pero aixi i tot es veuen sil.luetes en la distancia, recollint el coto dels camps. Feina feixuga. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. Algun arbre aqui i alla romp la monotonia del paisatge. Estic pensant que si s'elimina alguna figura que es veu i alguna paret mal feta que hi ha de tan en tant, i es "planta" un lleo...jo em crec que estic a un tren que travessa les planicies africanes. Pero a l'horitzo es veuen algunes montanyes i, un cop superat l'obstacle gracies als tunels, de cop i volta canvia el paisatge. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. Ara tot sembla mes verd, mes hidratat. Es veuen plantacions d'arros i gent treballant-hi. Els vestits de les dones son de colors intensos, vius. Es nota un aire diferent, mes alegria. Un llac, vida. Ja queda no res...arribam a Hospet i d'aqui a Hampi per visitar les runes de Vijayanagar, situades a un escenari impressionant de roques gegants - paradis d'escaladors de tot el mon.

I'm now on the train, heading towards Hospet from Margao (Goa). It takes about 7 hours (at a staggering 30-40 kmph average) in which time the little man offering chai at 5 Rs a cup comes every 15-20 min without failure. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. The train ride offers one the chance to see the distinct change in scenery. Leaving Margao there are endless fields, arid and of reddish tint. The midday heat advises against walking around the area, but even so one can see people in the distance working the cotton fields. Tough work. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. An odd tree here and there breaks the monotonous scenery. I think that if one removes the odd soul there in the distance, along with one or two poorly constructed walls, and plants a lion...I would easily believe to be on board a train crossing the african plains. But in the distant horizon a few mountains appear and, once that obstacle is overcome with the aid of a few tunnels, the scenery changes all of a sudden. Chaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaichaitea. Now everything seems much greener, lush. Rice fields to either side of the track and people working on them. The dresses of the local women are of intens, vibrant colours. There is a something different in the air, more joy. A lake, life. We're almost there. Hospet is around the corner and from there to Hampi to visit the ruins of Vijayanagar, located in the midst of an impressive scenery of giant boulders - paradise for rock climbers around the world.

Goa Goa

A mesura que un s'allunya de Mumbai en tren, deixant la ciutat enrera, dues coses semblen evidents: una que el paisatge metropolita deixa pas a un mon rural arid i caluros - la India rural; altra que aquest es un pais inclassificable: un poliedre en el qual cada cara i cada aresta mostra una petita realitat d'un tot unit malgrat i, alhora, gracies a grans contradiccions.
Arribant a l'estat de Goa rapidament es creua una aresta i la realitat ja es una altra. Aqui gairebe tot gira envers el turisme i es perceb una major prosperitat - no per a tothom desgraciadament. Goa es una barreja de l'esperit sedos i relaxat brasiler amb la manera de fer india (el caos organitzat). Amb extenses platjes sub-tropicals de cara a ponent, Goa es vertaderament un paradis - en la forma d'entendre-ho occidental - on la fotografia perfecta es, sens dubte, el sol que s'amaga a l'horitzo, tenyint la mar, l'arena i les palmeres d'un intens color roig que anuncia l'arribada del vespre.

Pero rera aquesta postal estan els inevitables xiringuitos, cabanyes de platja, lloguer de motos, bars, discoteques, venedors, etc. - a mes de l'omnipresent exercit format per aquells mes desfavorits i menys afortunats que estan al marge i subsisteixen de les nostres deixalles.
He estat 4 dies a Palolem, al sud de l'estat de Goa. Passejar per la platja els matins i els horabaixes; nedar a les tebes aigues arabigues; llegir; agradables conversacions mig en portugues mig en castella amb els avis de la zona, etc. En resum, uns dies de relax per descansar (al cap i a la fi son unes vacances) i preparar la resta del cami.
Des d'aqui salutacions a David i Andrew - companys aquests dies - esper que aconsigau el necessari per embarcar-vos en la vostra gran aventura. I no vull oblidar-me d'Ashwini (quin nom mes bonic!! - estrella), gracies per tota l'ajuda i informacio.

As one departs Mumbai on the train, leaving the city behind, two things seem obvious: one that the metropolitan jungle becomes a hot and arid rural landscape - rural India; another is that this country is unclassifiable: a geometrical body of infinite sides, each one showing a small reality of a whole that is cohesive despite, and thanks to also, its great contradictions.
Arriving in the state of Goa is changing from one plane to another and the reality has changed. Here almost everything revolves around tourism and there seems to be more wealthiness - not for all, sadly. Goa is a mix of the silky and relaxed brasilian spirit with the indian way of life (organised chaos). With long stretches of sub-tropical beach facing west, Goa is truly a paradise - in the western sense of the word - where the perfect picture is, without a doubt, the sun sinking on the horizon, dying the sand, the sea and the palm trees with an intens red colour that announces the evening.

But behind this beautiful postcard there are the inevitable beach stalls, huts, scooter rentals, bars, nightclubs, street stalls, etc. - apart from the ever present army of those who are less fortunate and live cast to a side from what we dispose of.
I've spent 4 days in Palolem, to the southern end of the state. Long walks along the beach in the early morning and evening, swimming in the warm waters of the Arabian sea, reading, chatting half in Portuguese - half in Spanish with the elders of the place, etc. To sum it up: relaxing for a few days (this is a holiday, after all) and planning the rest of the way.
Kind regards to Andrew and David - friends for a few days - I hope you find all you need to set out on what sounds like the trip of a lifetime. And also to Ashwini (star - what a beautiful name) thanks for all the help and info.

Mumbai...

El primer contacte.
He arribat a Mumbai i el primer que veig es que amb vaquers, calcetins i sabates me rostire viu: fa caloreta (per dir-ho d'alguna manera). Pero be, te arreglo facil.
Mumbai es el paradigma de caos total (primera impressio) tot i que si mires mica mes enlla en realitat te n'adones que rera el ritme frenetic d'aquesta mega-ciutat (gairebe 15 milions) existeix una perfecta sintonia entre tots els seus elements. Es una complicada coreografia que, a primera vista, sembla impossible de realitzar, pero que funciona (de fet no he vist cap accident de transit - cosa miraculosa considerant els vehicles, els carrers, la forma de conduir, etc.)
Aquesta ciutat es un gran aparador del que va ser i ja no es. Grans edificis col.lonials en penos estat de conservacio; una barreja de cotxes antics, cotxes moderns, rickshaws, camions multicolor, carros, vaques i mes. Tot i l'evident pobresa que es veu als carrers, es nomes una fraccio del que hi ha a la resta d'aquest pais. Aqui conviuen tendes modernes de moda, a preus europeus, amb venedors ambulants; restaurants d'alta cuina amb paradetes al carrer (delicios, per cert).
Hi ha de tot i per tots els gustos, colors, economies...en resum: increible.

I d'aqui cap a Goa...a la platjeta per no perdre el costum.




First contact.
Arrived in Mumbai and the first thing I notice is that wearing jeans, socks and shoes I'm just gonna roast alive: it's warmish (?). But hey...it's fixable!
Mumbai is the prime example of total chaos (first impression from an interesting 2hr taxi ride from the airport) although if one were to dig deeper one could conclude that hidden behind this chaotic appearance of this mega-city (close to 15mil) is, in fact, a perfect order between all the elements. Like a complicated choreography that just seems impossible at first (and thus chaotic), but it works (I've yet to see an accident - which seems a miracle considering...). This city is a great display of what was and no longer is. Great colonial buildings in a pathetic state of conservation; a mix of phenomenally old cars, modern cars, colourful lorries, rickshaws, carriages, cows...you name it, it's here. Even though there is noticeable poverty on the streets, what can be seen here is only a fraction of what the rest of the country holds. Here high-street boutiques and modern shops are side-by-side with street vendors; top-class restaurants next to street-stalls (delicious, by the way...and so cheap). Anything you can possibly think of is here...one word to describe it: incredible.

And now to Goa...to relax for a few days. After all, this is a holiday.