Hampi Hampi

El que mes impressiona de Hampi no son tots els temples i monuments que hi ha als voltants, sino l'escenari on es troben aquests. Hampi esta situada als dos marges d'un riu i aixo dona molta vida al lloc: tota la zona es un petit oasi enrevoltat de muntanyes formades per grans roques col.locades de maneres inverosimils. Mirant les roques es podria ben concloure que algun gegant ha passat un bon grapat de setmanes col.locant-les d'aquella manera, que sembla qualsevol cosa menys aleatoria. Pero be, pels que som mes cientifics-racionals en el nostre pensament (no se exactament que vol dir aixo) el paisatge de Hampi es una majestuosa coincidencia de la Natura.



The most impressive thing about Hampi are not the temples and monuments in its surroundings, but rather the stage where these are located. Hampi spreads to both sides of a river and this provides it with much life: the whole area is a small oasis surrounded by mountains made of great big boulders put together in unbelievable ways. Looking at their disposition, one could easily conclude that some giant has spent a good few weeks placing them in that manner, which seems anything but random. For those of us that are more rationallly inclined in our thought (not quite sure what that means) Hampi's landscape is a majestic coincidence of Nature.

Vaig arribar a Hampi amb un nou company de viatge: el David de Valladolid (rima inclosa), fruit d'una altra coincidencia (o la Providencia, com diria ell) i de l'accent marcadament espanyol amb que parlam la majoria de persones del pais (no tots). Hampi es un petit poblat als dos marges del riu Tungabhadra (ho he hagut de mirar) i que viu, basicament, dels turistes i dels molts peregrins indis que venen aqui. Aquests dos dies els hem dedicat a explorar la zona a peu sota una intensa calor. La majoria dels temples son ara nomes monuments, alguns en millor estat que altres, dins els quals no es venera cap deitat. Els que encara son temples en us son els mes bruts i l'estat de conservacio i neteja a algunes zones es mes que millorable. Hi ha tot un grapat de gent que dorm i, en general, viu dins els temples. Tots els fems, la brutor, les vaques, les monees, la calor, juntament amb les ofrenes (fruita, flors, encens, etc.) del dia i de molts altres dies passats, es mesclen per crear un ambient deliros, fantastic, inverosimil, que qualsevol podria qualificar de mistic.

I arrived in Hampi with a new travel companion: David from Valladolid (doesn't work in English), as a result of another coincidence (or Providence, as he would like to call it) and of the distinct Spanish accent with which we speak English in Spain (not all of us). Hampi is a small town spreading to both sides of the river Tungabhadra (had to check that just now) that lives, basically, off tourists and pilgrims that come here. We've spent these two days exploring the area on foot under the intense heat. Most of the temples are now just monuments, some in better state than others, in which there is no religious activity. Those that are still temples are the most dirty and their conservation state and cleanliness in some areas is more than improvable. There is a whole bunch of people that sleep and, in general, live inside the temples. All the garbage, dirt, cows, monkeys, the heat, together with the offerings (fruit, flowers, incens, etc.) of the day and many other days past, blend together to create a delirious, fantastic, unbelievable atmosphere that many would qualify as mistical.

Al final d'un llarg primer dia amb una passejada d'uns 15km sota la calor, vam decidir creuar el riu (amb barca, 10 Rs. - 2 minuts; negoci rodo) i explorar l'ambient de l'altra banda. Problema: darrer creuament en barca a les 18h. Solucio (cortesia d'un heaviata alemany): es pot creuar a peu per un lloc, banyant-se fins els genolls o cintura. Preparacio: banyadors, xancles, frontal, bossa hermetica pels diners. Tot llest. Vam creuar en barca i vam explorar aquella banda del riu. L'ambient es molt mes relaxat, amb molts chill-outs i poques tendes. Millor per quedar-s'hi (per la propera vegada). Una tenda amb un al.lot indi que parla castella gairebe perfecte: casat amb una cordobesa (petit mon).

At the end of a long first day with a 15km walk in the sun, we decided to cross the river (by boat, 10 Rs. 2 minutes; can't go wrong) and explore the atmosphere of the other side. Problem: last crossing at 18h. Solution (courtesy of heavy metal German): river can be crossed on foot, with water up to knees or waist. Preparation: swimming trunks, flip-flops, headlamp, sealed bag for money. Ready. We crossed by boat and explored that side. There is a much more relaxed atmosphere there, with plenty of chill-outs and few shops. Better to stay (for next time). A shop with an indian that speak near perfect Spanish: married to a girl from Cordoba (small world).

Hora de tornada. Xerrant amb una al.lota suissa ens comenta que no es pot creuar el riu a peu: han obert les comportes de la presa riu amunt i el nivell ha pujat casi 2 metres. Ens mostra un video que ho confirma. Increduls nosaltres baixam al marge del riu per valorar la situacio. Frontal al cap, navegant pels fems, ens adonam que per creuar caldra nedar i la corrent recomana no fer-ho de vespre. De tornada cap amunt es materialitzen del no-res quatre cans. Comencen a encalcar-nos, lladrant...merda! Corre, corre, corre....costa amunt. S'aturen abans d'arribar als primers edificis. Ara tot son rialles, suor, adrenalina. Finalment vam quedar a aquella banda del riu el vespre. Pel que costen les habitacions no es pagat, millor que nedar al riu de vespre.

Time to head back. Talking to a Swiss girl she tells us it's not possible to cross the river on foot: the flood gates of the damn upriver have been opened and the water level is 2 metres higher. She shows us a video that confirms this. Disbelieving people that we are we head down to the river side to asses the situation. Headlamp on, navigating through garbage, we realise that in order to cross we will have to fully swim and the current would recommend not doing this at night. On the way back up four dogs appear from nowhere. They start chasing us, barking...shit! Run, run, run...uphill. They stop short of the first buildings. It's all laughter now, sweat and adrenaline. Finally we stayed on that side of the river that night. For the cost of a room, it's not worth swimming in the river at night.

El dia seguent visitarem el temple Hanuman (monkey temple) amb les seves 600 i mes escales. Grans vistes des d’alt. Despres de tornada a l’hostal per preparar la maleta i agafar el bus cap a Anantapur. Esperant el bus a Hampi feia moltissima calor. Un polo fresquet: gran idea. Gran error, jeje. Despres d’una experiencia mitica en bus durant gairebe 6 hores per carreteres (camins) intransitables a vegades – tota una odisea de la qual un se’n riu despres (nomes despres) – arribarem a Anantapur.



The next day we visited the Hanuman temple (monkey temple) with 600 plus steps. Great views from the top. After that back to the guest house to pack the bag and take the bus to Anantapur. Waiting for the bus in Hampi it was very hot. A nice ice-lolly: great idea. Big mistake, hehe. After an unbelievable experience by bus during almost 6 hours, driving on sometimes undriveable roads – an odissey of which one can laugh after (only after) – we arrived in Anantapur.